
3 Need to Know Survival Skills for Easier Friction Fires
Thank goodness for people out there who are fans of friction fire building and who don’t mind sharing this knowledge with others. However, I was kind of disappointed (but not surprised) when I found out that I wouldn’t get a fire every time I try, but also gained some comfort in knowing I can actually learn something new every time I fail.
Okay, I’m going to be honest here and just say I’ve never been a big fan of friction fire building – probably because I’ve found it so difficult to be successful. I have tried it a few times and have given up before achieving any noticeable results.
However, I do want to learn this skill because I know it will be a huge advantage to have this knowledge in the event of an emergency survival situation*. So, I have been doing some research in this area and came across some good information on how to exactly go about making a fire from friction using a bow-and-drill method.
Thank goodness for people out there who are fans of friction fire building and who don’t mind sharing this knowledge with others. However, I was kind of disappointed (but not surprised) when I found out that I wouldn’t get a fire every time I try, but also gained some comfort in knowing I can actually learn something new every time I fail.
I know there are others out there too who think making friction fire is impossibly difficult as well. However, I’ve found some good info on the process and hoping to find out that it doesn’t have to be such a daunting task. In this post I’ll look at three areas where you can improve your friction fire building skills, and hopefully make this process a lot less difficult.
Find the Right Cord

The very first thing that hinders most people in the process is the cord. In some cases, they are completely defeated before the bow even makes its first stroke. As I’ve stated in previous posts, the 550 paracord is the most popular choice in survival circles and it would seem a natural choice for the bow-and-drill cord but it wasn’t designed for great traction.
It was however engineered to be strong and that’s good. But, for use in parachuting, it also had to be engineered to be thin and slippery. Being thin and slippery are exactly the characteristics that cause almost all friction fire builders to stumble because, if the cord can’t grip the drill, it cannot spin the drill.
With this in mind, the ideal cord for your bow should be thicker and have better gripping power. It’s best to use 3/16-inch or even ¼-inch braided rope if possible. If you don’t have that on hand, double your 550 paracord and put a twist on it.
If that doesn’t work, you could do what I suggested in my previous post on friction fire building and borrow an ancient technique from the Arctic. This technique involves wrapping your cord wrap 2 or 3 times around the wooden drill and will double or even triple your traction. Doing this will also put a stop to the energy waste caused by cord slippage.
The Notch

Even though the most dependable friction fire methods involve a notch to collect the dust and the global favorite is a triangular shaped notch that is cleanly cut through the board – usually at a 45-degree angle – it is simply not the best application in all circumstances.
I would advise to forget the V-shaped pie piece, and cut a trapezoidal notch–one that is squared off in the back. This will pack the loose dust more tightly together, and keep it in the notch longer, allowing it to heat up to a higher temperature.
Remember too that some woods produce a course, black, splintery dust and will often make fire more dependably if you change the shape of the notch. The 45-degree notch works fine for most materials, but there are exceptions.
The Drill

Did you know that in wet or frigid weather a hollow-point drill can be an ace up your sleeve? This is because this technique amplifies the downward pressure of the drill by reducing the surface area in contact with the board – a main benefit of this is a simple modification that can resolve several issues.
Using this method is like you’re pushing down harder, without having to actually do so. This can be a big benefit when your performance suffers from fatigue, lack of strength, and injury. Simply drill out the tip of your bow drill with the tip of your knife blade, and use the drill as you normally would.
Well, that’s all I got for this post and I hope you found it helpful. If so, please leave a comment below or even suggest an even better process than I have included here. As I have mentioned at the beginning, knowing how to start fire by friction could mean the difference between life and death in a survival situation. Thanks for coming by today and, until next time, Happy Survival!

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