
The Easy Way to Tanning Animal Hides for Leatherworking
After watching Tom tan the wolf hide, it made more sense not to get that involved with the process and the way I was doing things was still making me a little spending money. However, what I’ve learned from watching Mountain Men and especially Tom Oar, is how they can take that same pelt that I got $10 for back in the day and turn it into a pelt worth a $100 or more.
After my last post I began thinking a lot about leatherworking and how to find the right kind of leather for your specific project and thought about the scenario where going to the store or ordering leather online wasn’t an option.
Of course, it helps that we’ve been watching a lot Mountain Men episodes on the History Channel lately and watched as old-timer Tom Oar takes a wolf skin and tans it using brains of all things!
I guess brain tanning – because of the proteins and lecithins they contain - is a pretty common way of taking raw animal skins and transforming them into useful items such as clothes, arrow scabbards, knife sheaths, or many other survival or off-grid uses.
When Tom did the tanning of the wolf hide, it was amazing to me to see how the process was carried out. It was nothing like what I had envisioned and probably nothing like the process of commercial tanning of cow hides for consumer and business usage. It looked like a lot of work!
I had done a little trapping when I was younger and did my fair share of skinning animals for a little extra spending money. But, the skins I procured were just dropped into the freezer and thawed right before taking them to the buyer.
(I don’t know if that's even possible around here anymore). I’ve skinned raccoons, squirrels, opossums, beavers, skunks, (yes skunks) and coyotes but never really got into the tanning side of the pelts.

Advanced Tanning Solutions, Tan-a-Hide, Dale Knobloch's Large Mammal Tanning Kit
After watching Tom tan the wolf hide, it made more sense not to get that involved with the process and the way I was doing things was still making me a little spending money. However, what I’ve learned from watching Mountain Men and especially Tom Oar is how they can take that same pelt that I got $10 for back in the day and turn it into a pelt worth a $100 or more.
I think the wolf hide was going to be worth around three to five hundred dollars once he was through with the process of tanning it. So, I thought this would go well with my post of leatherworking and learning this invaluable skill. It is truly gratifying to know that you not only have the skills to tan leather in the wild, but to also be able to make your own leather goods from those animal skins that would otherwise be given away or go to waste.
It is also gratifying to know that the tools you have and all other accoutrements are made by your own hands and can be used for survival and sustenance in almost any situation. So, let’s get on with the actual process of tanning an animal skin for years of use around the farm. The 10-step process includes:
- Evaluating the hide and trim off edges
- Removing the flesh
- Soaking in water or a bucking solution
- Scraping off grain and membrane
- Wringing out moisture
- Applying braining solution
- Wringing hide
- Repeating braining and wringing
- Softening your hide
- Smoking to preserve softness

Fox Peak Outdoor Supply 5 Piece Fur Tanning Kit
Fleshing
Once your hide has been inspected, deemed worthy of use, and has been trimmed up, it’s time to flesh it. To do this, spread your hide on a wooden beam, making sure it’s flat and not folded and begin scraping with your scraping tool. Scrape small areas at a time to remove all flesh from the hide.
Soaking
In a process of controlled rotting, soaking a hide after fleshing loosens the hair and softens the membrane layer, which will be the next part you scrape off. Soaking your hide in a creek (tied to a large rock or tree so it doesn’t float away), or a bucket with a rock to weigh it down, are traditional ways of doing this. Just remember that, if you’re using a bucket, be sure to agitate the hide a couple of times a day.
Depending on the temperature of the water, the soaking process will take anywhere between 2 days and a couple of weeks. You know it’s done when you can easily pull the hair off the hide with a firm tug.
I know I said this was going to be the “easy” way to hide tanning but after the soaking, the hard work begins because animal skins have layers of different kinds of tissues above and below the thick part we turn into leather.

The Ultimate Guide to Skinning and Tanning: A Complete Guide to Working with Pelts, Fur, and Leather
Under the hair (which you will scrape off as well) is a layer of grain that holds the hair in. This grain needs to be removed for successful tanning to occur and it can be very tricky to get all of it off. This is because it is quite well attached to the hide and very hard to see.
The approach that is most likely to be successful in removing this grain is to be careful and methodical. Always scrape small areas at a time and with a good amount of force. Personally, I like to start scraping in the middle of the hide.
Remember too that it’s easiest to remove the grain if you scrape from an area with no grain (that you’ve already scraped) into an area with the grain still attached. There is a learning curve here and, as you learn how to tan a hide, this part of the process will become more clear, but not necessarily physically easier.
Now’s a chance to take a break, if you like, or if circumstances require because you can store a hide at this stage as long as it is dry. So, if you’re getting tired, the weather’s bad, or it’s just taking longer than you expected, dry your hide - so this is where that expression comes from - and roll it up for later.
Membraning
Now comes the time to membrane, whether you’ve dried your hide or decided to work on through after scraping.
The membrane side is the meat side that used to contain the deer’s innards. But, don’t forget to rehydrate a dry hide before this step.
You need to use the same methodical approach when removing the membrane but with way less force and meticulousness. This step is the flip side of the hide that involves scraping to remove the membrane.
Wringing
After membraning, you need to wring out as much moisture as you can. You want a Goldilocks dry: soft and pliable, but just barely damp. You don’t want a crunchy, bone-dry hide or one dripping with dark, wet spots.

Wringing Pole: Image courtesy of Wildabundance.net - https://www.wildabundance.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/twisting-hide-close-up-1.jpg.webp
Brain tanning: Soaking your hide in brains, and Softening
Now, it’s time to get to the brains of the matter- real brains! It’s the fat and lecithin in brains that make them ideal for creating a natural “tanning” solution. Also, you can always use egg yolks if you don’t have brains because egg yolks also contain fat and lecithin too, but just don't seem to have quite the same mystery and allure or maybe it’s just the grossness of brains. Here’s my recipe*:
1-½ gallons hot water (not so hot that it will burn your skin)
1 deer brain, or 1 pound of another kind of brains, or 12 egg yolks, whisked or blended into very small particles
¼ cup olive oil, other oil, or rendered bear fat.
Submerge your hide in this warm, oily solution and stir it around a bit to make sure the whole hide is saturated. Let it soak for a minimum of 15 minutes and as long as overnight (or somewhere in between). Then pull it out, hand wringing it to leave as much of the solution in the bucket as you can. Now, place your hide over the wringing pole and twist it up in a donut.

The Trapper's Bible: The Most Complete Guide to Trapping and Hunting Tips Ever
Next, wring it out on the wringing pole, then soak it again, wring it again, soak it again, wring it again…Do this 2-4 times, depending on your stamina, how big and thick your hide is, how big your arms are, and what sort of mood you are in. The key here is to get the brain solution to penetrate through the whole hide. This is one of the steps that wasn’t shown on the episode of Mountain Men but the one below is.
Softening
In order to avoid your hide becoming hard like rawhide, you must keep the fibers moving throughout this final drying and this is another labor-intensive part of hide tanning. (Okay, so there’s at least two mentions of “labor-intensive” activity in m my easy tanning guide). Begin by stretching the hide as though you were trying to pull it apart from side to side. Then try to pull it apart lengthwise and don’t forget the edges!

Advanced Tanning Solutions, Tan-a-Hide, Dale Knobloch's Large Mammal Tanning Kit
In the episode of Mountain Men, this is where Tom took the wolf hide and moved it around one of his cabin’s poles and kept pulling and moving it continuously. This was the part I had never heard of or tried and yes! It looked very labor-intensive when I watched Tom doing this.
Smoking your hide to preserve all your work
While your white hide may seem beautifully soft before smoking, it will become stiff and hard again as soon as water touches it. Smoking is the final step to make buckskin that will stay soft in all kinds of weather. Keeping it soft is why you smoke it, and smoking will also turn your hide into a lovely amber color. Just remember: When your hide is completely dry (and soft), it’s time to smoke it!
First, you want to turn your hide into a kind of a pouch with one open end at the neck (temporarily), with the side that used to have hair on the inside. Use glue, staples, or stitching to do this. Then extend this pouch with a tube made of cloth that will fit snugly over the outlet of your smokey coals.

Advanced Tanning Solutions, Tan-a-Fur Skin, Dale Knobloch's Small Mammal Tanning Kit
Build a fire using nice hardwood for fuel. Let this fire burn for 30 minutes to an hour (or longer), so that a good-sized bed of coals accumulates. Use either a a hole in the ground, an old wood stove, or a metal can with holes poked in it. Move some of the coals from the fire into your wood stove, metal can or hole in the ground and, at that point, add (soft/damp) punky wood on top of those coals to create a lot of smoke.
Now, “hang your hide” (another euphemism?) and its cloth extension over those same coals so the smoke is channeled up into it. Allow the smoke to penetrate the hide fully, which can take 30 minutes to 3 hours, then flip your pouch inside out and smoke the membrane sides of your hide. Remember that both the inside and outside of the “pouch” needs to be smoked for the tanning process to be complete.
Well, this wraps up another blog post on this blustery Thursday morn. Thanks for stopping by and reading to the end. If you liked it, leave a comment, if you hated it, leave a comment. If you have suggestions, leave a comment. Until next time- happy living!
(*) This and other content for this post have been borrowed from wildabundance.net where YouTube videos, online, and face-to-face courses for tanning animal skins are available to the public.

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